Solar panels can directly convert sunlight into electricity, becoming the sun Earth’s principal energy source. These days, no one can function without electricity. The majority of the devices we use regularly are powered by it.
What exactly are solar panels, then? But suppose you could make your own?
Here, we’ll outline a simple process for constructing your solar panel.
WHAT IT’S MADE OF
The PV (photovoltaic) or solar cell is the energy producer in a solar panel. Other components include the protective glass, the frame for structural support, the back sheet on which the cells are mounted, the junction box for connecting the wirings, and the encapsulant for holding everything together.
It is crucial to identify and comprehend those six components so that anyone may plan the materials needed to make a do-it-yourself or homemade solar panel, as most individuals do not have access to equipment to manufacture solar panels.
The instructions for making a solar panel should use readily accessible, easily sourced components, cost less than a new one, and not take too long to construct.
PV Cell, No. 1
The solar cell is the starting point when designing a DIY solar panel.
Photovoltaic (PV) cells, often known as solar cells, can transform sunlight into electricity. Like the microbot in Baymax (Hero 6), a single solar cell is inefficient and must be joined with others to provide usable electricity. Although the basic unit’s output of 0.5 to 1 volt of DC (direct current) is reasonable, it is still insufficient for most uses. The solar cells in a solar panel are connected in series to provide a usable DC voltage, and the modules that make up the solar panel are enclosed in protective coverings. Two cells in a series should be able to generate 1 volt, meeting the definition of a module if one cell generates 0.5 volts by itself. The standard number of cells in a module is between 28 and 36. To charge a 12V battery or run 12V devices, a 28-cell module should generate around 14 volts (28 x 0.5 = 14VDC).
Like connecting batteries to form a battery storage system, connecting two or more solar cells requires understanding of series and parallel connections.
Both monocrystalline and polycrystalline solar cells are readily available for purchase. Both options can be the same 156mm × 156mm in size; the main distinction is performance. It’s wise to stock up on extra cells in case you experience problems with the ones you already have, whether from improper soldering, a broken cell, scratches, or anything else.
Typically, monocrystalline solar cells are dark in color and take the form of octagons. These solar cells are more costly since they are fabricated from ultra-pure silicon. But they are the most efficient of all solar cells. Thus, solar contractors almost always go with them if panel size is a concern for the amount of energy they need to produce.
Silicon Photovoltaics Blue and rectangular best describes the appearance of cells. These cells are produced using a less sophisticated method, which compromises the silicon quality and the final product’s overall efficiency.
Although monocrystalline cells are generally more efficient, this does not necessarily translate to superior performance or higher power output. Every solar panel or solar cell has an efficiency rating based on standard tests performed when they were built, and this rating has something to do with the size of the cells. Typical values for this rating are between 15% and 20% of the total possible points.
2.) Glass
The PV cells are shielded from damage by the glass, letting in the most light possible. Anti-reflective materials are commonly used to make these. Even while manufacturers still use flat plate glass on their solar panels, tempered glass has become the standard. Even though the cost of producing tempered glass is more than that of regular plate glass because it is strengthened through chemical or thermal processes, modern manufacturing methods have made this material affordable in contrast to tempered glass, which fractures safely into little pieces upon contact and is therefore also called safety glass, flat plate glass forms sharp and lengthy shards when broken. It is essential to highlight that constructing amorphous solar panels necessitates using flat plate glass.
Solar panels are made with tempered glass for mass production. Plexiglas, also known as acrylic glass, is recommended for use in our Do It Yourself project because it is less likely to break than standard glass. It costs more than conventional glass but holds up better in adverse conditions and is much harder to break. You may screw or glue the Plexiglas to the frame.
3.) Frame
The solar module’s frame, often constructed of anodized aluminum, provides structural integrity and strength. These metal frames work with various solar mounting methods and grounding tools, making for a quick and trouble-free installation on any roof or flat surface.
Aluminum is commonly used for the frame in factory-made solar panels, where the solar panel sheet is attached on all four sides. Imagine a basic, rectangular framework. By the way, the other four parts make up the solar panel sheet by being layered and laminated in the following order from top to bottom: tempered glass, top encapsulant, solar cells, bottom encapsulant, and back sheet. Our homemade solar panel will have a wooden frame, similar to a picture frame: the solar cells will adhere to a non-conductive board, the Plexiglas will serve as the cover, and the wood will serve as the frame and backsheet.
Backing sheet
The module’s back is covered with a thin sheet of plastic film called the back sheet. This is the only barrier between the module and potentially dangerous DC voltage. The back sheets’ primary role is to insulate and safeguard the handler against shock while providing the most secure, efficient, and trustworthy electrical conductivity.
The frame will be fastened to the top and sides of a plywood backsheet. To properly position and align the PV Cells, a perforated hardboard (Pegboard) will be placed on top of the wooden backsheet and inserted into the wooden frame.
Connector Box (No. 5)
Terminal wires and bypass diodes are hidden away in the junction box. Based on the series connections of the PV Cells, the terminal wires are the positive and negative wires that can be linked to another solar panel, a charge controller, a battery system, or an inverter. When the solar panel is not producing electricity, such as at night, the bypass diode acts as a safety device by blocking the flow of current back to the board.
Online retailers, particularly in China, now provide connection boxes made specifically for factory-built solar panels. If you have time to wait for delivery, you can order an electrical junction box online; otherwise, you can pick one up at any hardware shop. The positive and negative terminals are enclosed in the junction box to prevent damage from moisture and debris. This is the starting point for the two wires (positive red and negative black). Along with the PV junction box, you may safeguard the other end of these two wires with a PV attachment known as MC4, which is available online.
Closure agent
Solar modules are protected from dust and moisture by encapsulant sheets, which also act as shock absorbers. They can adhere to the glass, PV cells, and backsheet with force comparable to glue. Lamination equipment and techniques are typically used to apply Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate or EVA encapsulants. Solar panel producers employ a vacuum and a big oven to seal and cure the EVA sheet onto the solar panels. While most of us lack the necessary skills, many have attempted it with varied degrees of success.
The solar cell sheet has two thin plastic or encapsulants glued on either side. The bottom encapsulant is the layer that goes on top of the backsheet and provides structural support for the solar cells. Instead, we’ll be using latex acrylic paint for this task. Because it is impossible to evenly distribute or apply the liquid to the surface of the PV cells, this paint will not be applied to the cells. The Pegboard, hardwood backsheet, and wooden frame will all be painted. The wooden components should be protected from UV rays, and this Latex Acrylic paint should be able to resist blistering and cracking over time. This paint is water-based, but it’s impervious to rain and other wet conditions once it dries.
John Kelley, “How to Build a Solar Panel,”
Our writings at [http://howtomakeasolarpanel.net] focus on DIY solar panels for residential and non-commercial applications. We offer links to relevant publications and software to help our visitors learn more about solar panels.
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